The 4,000 Islands of southern Laos - October-November 2019

This cluster of numerous islands is found at the far southern border of Laos in the middle of the Mekong River. Cambo is just a hike away. At this point the Mekong River widens to over a kilometre and reveals many islands (four thousand? I don’t know) above the waterline. In the dry season many of these tiny and low islands are revealed. In the wet season many of these temporary islands disappear under the flooding waters while the main islands suffer from aquatic inundation.

So—why go there?
In short, relaxation. The 4,000 is the most laid back environment in Southeast Asia.

Just what is it?
There are two islands that bear the main brunt of tourism. These islands are named Don Det and Don Khon. Each is only a few square kilometres. Most of the land area is given over to rice and agriculture. On Don Det there is a road encircling the island with several roads criss-crossing the island. Next to the jetty is the tourist strip, 100m of small restaurants, tourist agencies, hotels, and bars. The same with Don Khon only the tourist area is centred on the “Old French Bridge” that links these two islands.

Living
A hostel is $5 a night. A hotel room runs from $10-$30 a night, depending. Some include breakfast. There are only two 3 star hotels, one on each island. Food—again, depends, but anywhere from $10-$20 a day from any of the restaurants. Cooking your own food is limited as few if any hotels have the facilities.

Getting around is easy. Bikes and motorbikes can be rented in the tourist areas. Bikes are about $1 a day, motorbikes $5-$10 a day. Also, of course, you can walk. A hike across the two islands is only 10 kilometres or so. Walking is easy and pleasant.

The local social environment is laid back. There are only a handful of expats. Usually, of course, these are men married to local women.

I was told that as recently as 2010 there was no electricity and no phones on the island. Idyllic?


What can you do?
Not a great deal. First, you can relax, read a book, and chill. This is always a pleasant option. There are a number of organised tours. A sunset cruise, to watch the sunset. A one day kayak and walk around the island. On the two islands there is a waterfall, a few colonial relics as tourist attractions, an adventure park (small, not overly adventurous, but zipline!), and so forth. There is really not a great deal to do. Relaxation.

Internet
Yes, wifi is widely available at all hotels and restaurants (best to check speed and reliability if this is important to you). Speed is not great, approximately 5/5mbps.

How to get there?
Most folk reach the 4000 via the Lao town of Pakse, ~100kms to the north. The best way to travel from Pakse is on a tourist van. Tickets be purchased at most Pakse hotels or at any of the numerous tourist agencies in town. Ensure that the price includes ferry transport from the mainland to Don Det, the first stopping point. The Price 70,000 kip, about us$10, 3 hours in total.

It is also possible to reach the 4000 from Cambo. Just buy a ferry ticket on the mainland. There are several tick offices and boat companies.