Back again! I do enjoy
this town. It would be hard not to.
Luang Prabang is a
world heritage site, a town in northern Laos, capital of the province
of the same name, and a major tourist drawcard. The quiet, but still
somewhat busy streets draw tourists from all over the world, mainly
younger, backpacker oriented people, who visit as part of their tour
of Laos and south-east Asia. People come to relax, enjoy the
beautiful scenery, spend a little time with nature, and generally to
chill. The town is a days journey by bus from Vientiane and half a
day from Vang Vieng.
LP is a tiny
destination by most standards, dwarfed by the megacities in
neighbouring countries, it has a population of 55,000. The town lies
between the Mekong River and Nam Khan Rivers. Essentially, the town
is a long peninsular. The peninsular area consists of four main
roads, which form the main tourist area. This is filled with
restaurants, hotels, tour companies, tourist trinket shops, and
massage shops—everything you need. Prices—cheap, cheaper than
Thailand, cheaper than Vientiane, and a far more relaxing locale than
both.
Getting in and out is
easy. There is an international airport just out of town, with planes
to all nearby countries. Also three bus stations, also with routes to
all nearby countries. In addition, boats (slow) linking LP to other
Laotian destinations and to Thailand. A fun journey. Easy to get in,
easy to get out! Transportation inside the city is by tuktuk or
rented motorbike or bicycle. Or just walk—it is a small town.
Delightfully, there is little aggressive selling. Tuktuk drivers will
call out “sir”, but that is it.
There is a lot to do
for the eager tourist. Several waterfalls, several caves (Buddhist
images), and elephants, local villages, eco-tourism—you get the
idea—low key “green” tourism. Day trips, 2-3 night excursions,
or tailored travels. It is possible to visit villages with people
living largely traditional lives—as people have done for most of
human existence. In the town there are two museums, several temples,
and the town itself to see. Shopping, dozens of small shops selling
local handicrafts, jewellery, bags and what not. Local tourist
shopping in the night market is fun. Buy a few souvenirs and a couple
of useful items from locals. I always buy a gadget (spoon, bottle
opener, etc) made from aluminium scavenged from unexploded bombs left
over from the Vietnam War. There are two small malls, one open air,
one more modern in style, also convenience stores, and the rest. Not
a place to visit for 'shopping', but a place where you can buy what
you need.
Food is great! Laos and
western cuisine, and a few others. I even spotted an Aussie Sports
Bar! Also cafes, with excellent Laos coffee and cakes. I would
recommend the L'Etranger Book and Tea cafe. This noble venue sells
excellent food, sells and exchanges books, sells local craft
products, sells art paintings, great service, and has a nightly movie
screening, which is always packed with 20+ people in the upstairs
room watching a movie on the big screen. A fantastic night out.
Speaking of
accommodation, LP is the easiest town in Asia in which to find a
room. These range from 3 to 1 stars. By this I mean there are no huge
franchise hotels, nor for that matter, any large hotels. As a UNESCO
World Heritage Site LP preserves its traditional French/Laos
architecture, with many of the building being improved upon from my
first visit five years back. Walk along any street, and you will see
guest houses, hotels, and rooms on offer. A dorm starts at $3-$4, a
mid-range single room with aircon is $10+, a better room in a classy
stylish building is $25+. I am not even sure if I would recommend
booking. Just get off the bus and walk into the town. See what
presents itself. Large discounts are available on the off-season
(rainy season, second half of the year).
My hotel of choice this
time was the Cold River. This is east of the town, on the other side
of Mount Phousi (pronounced pussy). I got a room here for $25 a
night, including breakfast, where I got to sit and chat to other
travellers and volunteers residing here for a few days or weeks. One
chap was a Dutch vet, who was advising Laos farmers with cattle and
buffaloes—there is only one Laos vet in the province! Also an
American nurse who was providing training for local Laos nurses. A
French doctor doing the same. A group of American girls (<30
years), who were here to empower local women with English lessons.
My reason for staying
here so long (ten days) in LP was to obtain a Chinese visa for my
planned Chinese visit. I want to visit China again for many reasons.
There are a few academic job prospects I want to check out, also I
can visit my online Chinese students, see a few friends, do more
waymarking in China, and see more of this large and variegated
country.
Chinese visa-this was
not the easiest process, but not terribly difficult. To gain a
Chinese visa one must visit a Chinese embassy and hand over or
present the following documents: passport (naturally), proof of
inbound and outbound travel, a hotel reservation for your first stop,
and an itinerary of your visit (dates and places). I added to this a
copy of my travel insurance (always good to have). Then wait three
working days. My wait coincided with a weekend, and, the Chinese
Dragon Boat Festival, which necessitated the closure of the Chinese
Embassy of LP. This meant a wait of a week and a few days. This did
not disturb me, as you can imagine I greatly enjoyed my time in LP
and the Cold River Hotel.
Ready I am. Ready for
China. New shoes, a haircut, practicing basic Chinese, which will no
doubt give children an excuse to laugh at my pronunciation! Leaving
in two days.
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