My
next destination was Jinghong City. Jjinghong is the capital of the
southern area of Yunnan Province. Yunnan Province borders Laos (and
Myanmar and Vietnam). This southern area is named
Xishuangbanna ('she-shung-ban-ar', nicknamed Banna), and is an
autonomous region in the province. Banna culture reflects its Thai
history and association. This region was once a Thai kingdom that
eventually fell under the sway of China. The city is tiny by Chinese
standards “only” half a million people! My first view of the city
and the word “delightful” comes to mind. At night neon lights
illuminate the streets and eating areas of the city. There is a great
stretch of cafes and small restaurants in the city centre.
The journey from Luang
to Jinghong City (as it is nicknamed) is a 12 hour bus ride
(07.00-19.00). Not the worst, but certainly not the most comfortable
bus ride you will ever experience. Essentially,
a long and winding, and bumpy road., but with beautiful and lush,
green scenery. If you are prone to motion sickness you will find the
journey up and down, from bump to bump, not fun at all. One woman on
my trip had to sit in the front of the bus in the jumpseat, and she
asked for frequent stops—some of which she received.
The
bus departs from the southern bus station of LP, with a scheduled
departure of 07.00, however, my bus left at 07.30, after lots of
running around, form filling, and smoking in the designated
non-smoking areas. We each had to list our passport details on a
form, the form all in Chinese. I filled in what I could deduce and
put a “?” in the other columns. More on passports later. There is
food sold at the bus terminal at a small, but pleasant cafe, however,
“motion sickness”—I always prefer to travel on an empty
stomach.
We
moved directly off from LP south, circling the town to reach National
Highway 13. From then on to the border, with three major stops,
including one at the busy town of Oudomxay.
The
bus trip cost me 280,000 Kip ($35) from an agent in the city. This
did include a tuktuk ride to the station. No doubt cheaper if you put
it together yourself.
Mohan/Boten
border crossing. The main excitement came at Chinese immigration.
Exiting Laos was easy enough, the usual process. Don't forget your
exit card, but if you do just write it out again in the office area.
A little slow, my immigration guy seemed to be harassing Laos folk
desirous of visiting China, but no trouble for me. In fact I did not
have to pay the exit fee my fellow passengers were paying, however,
this ease was soon to disappear at my next stop.
We
returned to the bus and drove 2 kilometres north to the Chinese
immigration office, here things changed. I was the only westerner on
the bus, the others were either Laos or Chinese citizens. The first
step was an inspection of our bags. Exit the bus, lay our bags on an
outdoor table where solders waited to examine the contents. Then onto
the large, largely empty, immigration hall. Here things became more
complex.
An
officer with 3 stars on his shoulder asked for my itinerary,
discussing my answers with his colleagues, carefully inspecting the
binding of my passport for signs of tampering, and generally slowing
things down. However, he and they were always polite, and I gather
they were as much interested in practicing their English as they were
in checking my background. With all this I was the last back to the
bus, where my fellow passengers were waiting.
The
entire process of immigration took an hour and half, from leaving
Laos to entering China, so not too bad, but is any of it really
necessary? More an example of paranoia than protection.
Now,
I am in the city of Jinghong for two days. Lets see what the city
offers in the way of diversion!
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